Teleflex steering

[Red Sky One]

I just finished installing a replacement Teleflex cable system in my 1988 20CC. I replaced this same cable about 5 years ago. I'm having to replace this cable because the current cable began to get harder and harder to turn until it eventually froze completely - the same thing that happened to the previous cable. Apparently if any water gets into the cable, it's done for. I don't know how to seal this end except blob a bunch of grease where the cable comes out. Anybody been sucessful sealing these cables?

Here's my real gripe with Teleflex. I was hoping to just bolt the new cable and rack to the old pinion column. When I tried to unbolt the rack I found the nuts completely encased in rust and my 7/16 wrench would no go over the rust. I managed to get them off with a pair of vice grips. I then had to remove the steering pinion column. These 3 bolts were so rusted that all 3 twisted in two rather than screwing off. (5 years)

As I put together the new parts, I notice that Teleflex again supplied cheap soft metal fasteners for equipment that is most certainly intended for marine the marine environment. I don't know why Teleflex cheapens its reputation to save a $1 on a $160 Item.

Anyhow be careful when you install any Teleflex eguipment be sure to replace the seven soft metal bolts that come with the system.

Richard
Red Sky One

[chuckash]

The best way to get life out of that cable has been discussed before, but I will chime in now and give a quick summary. Start by turning the wheel in whatever direction is necessary to exend the cable out of the sheath at the rudder end. Clean up what you can with scotchbrite, carb cleaner, whatever. Grease this freshly cleaned up area real well. Work it back and forth a few times, regrease if necessary.

The next, and equally important step. After every time you use the boat, turn the wheel so that the cable is inside the sheath for storage. For my rig, this means turning the wheel fully to the right. This keeps the cable protected from the elements and encased in the grease. The grease also protects the cable from the elements.

Bottom line is a little planning and maintenance on the boat owners part can extend the life of the cable.

That being said, I will send this link to a well placed source within Teleflex.

Charlie

[KevinK]

Here's another option for keeping your steering cables unstuck. I don't think it's widely known, but we wholesale several a year.

Davis Cable Buddy - http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=00420

Charlie's comment about coating exterior parts is spot-on as well - especially those of you in the saltwater environment.

I'm having lunch with my Teleflex rep today and will also show him your post. Maybe if we hit 'em from several different sides...

Cheers, Kevin

[Kurt]

I had a device similar to what Kevin noted on the cable end on my old O/B boat except it had a Zirk fitting on it so you could pump grease into it. There was an O-ring in it that ran against the cable ram, to seal water out of the cable. I had that guy for 9 years with no problems.

I'm not sure that it would work on the cable end in my Shamrock - just can't remember what it looks like in there and the boat's still covered.

[KevinK]

Actually, the Davis #425 "Lube II" looks like the same thing minus the (I believe graphite) lube, but it does include the zerk fitting and can be used with the lube of your choice. I do not know why the #420 doesn't include the zerk. -Kevin

[Dave Wolfe]

Teleflex uses grade 5 bolts for the fasteners on the helm and mounting brackets. These bolts are zinc plated and yellow dichromate dipped to protect the carbon steel. The tensile strength of these bolts is well suited for the application. The tensile strength of the usual hardware store (8-18 or unknown) stainless steel bolt is lower and could twist off easier. I would recommend staying with the factory supplied bolts. The corrosion problem may be one of electrolysis, do not ground any electric devise to your helm or cable. Be sure your bonding system is up to par. The advise on greasing the end of the cable is on the mark. Use waterproof marine grease on the telescopic end of the cable and perform routine maintenance to keep free of salt build up. The steering cable is lubed for life and grease or oil should not be forced into the cable, you can experience a hydraulic lock condition if these lubricants are forced into the cable. Please be sure the cable jacket does not get rubbed through or burned and maintain a 8 inch bend radius and this will provide the best steering. When the cable does start to become tight this is your warning it is time to replace your cable.

[Kurt]

For fasteners approximately through 5/8"

Grade 8 tensile = 150,000 PSI (doesn't like shock loads)
Grade 5 tensile = 120,000 PSI
18-8 SS tensile = 100,000 to 125,000 PSI
Grade 2 tensile = 74,000 PSI

Source = http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

If 18-8 fasteners were to fail, there would be other, more serious problems.

[No Tacks]

Ok guys this is how I lube my cable..Find an old air rechargable fire extingiusher..Most schools have em...Now get yourself a piece of hose clear is better about 2 ft long..Empty the f/e and add 1 quart of oil..Add air to the f/e..Now remove cable from tiller arm and remove large nut.Turn wheel so cable extends outward.Slide 2 ft clear hose over cable and clamp and clamp tip of f/e..Now get a wire tie and turn on f/e and wire tie it open and leave it like that for a few hours.Remove and turn cable in..At first it will be hard to get cable in but after first try it will be real easy..place an oilsorb under cable end and your done...

[Osprey IV]

A retired fisherman taught me this trick:
Work the cable in and out (no matter how little) while spraying WD-40 on the shaft. As you work it in and out, wipe the disolved grease/salt off with a rag and spray more WD-40 on it. Given patience, you will restore it the full range.

Once it is free, remember WD-40 is solvent, not lubricant so lightly grease the cable and remember to clean it with WD-40 regularly.

[Osprey IV]

A retired fisherman taught me this trick:
Work the cable in and out (no matter how little) while spraying WD-40 on the shaft. As you work it in and out, wipe the disolved grease/salt off with a rag and spray more WD-40 on it. Given patience, you will restore it the full range.

Once it is free, remember WD-40 is solvent, not lubricant, so lightly grease the cable and remember to clean it with WD-40 regularly.

[SCOOTER]

Once the cable is either freed up or replaced, grease & install a steering cable boot.

http://www.nicksoutboardmarine.com/images/SB-34steercblboot.jpg

[Keylime]

Is it the Teleflex Series 3300/33C that applies to our 'Rocks?

[SCOOTER]

Is it the Teleflex Series 3300/33C that applies to our 'Rocks?

Teleflex 3300/Morse 33C cables are for the throttle & shift controls.

Chances are that you have a Detmar rack system in there for the steering, unless someone has already replaced it.