Bristol Finish

[Tony]

Klahowya All:

Looking for more input from the palm tree latitudes. Sold one of the kids into slavery and bought a quart kit of Bristol Finish, out of Florida, by C Tech Marine. Supposed to have one of the best UV coatings for exposed woodwork above the waterline in the industry. A year ago, when researching the product, someone posted (can't find it now) that it was affiliated to Honey Teak coatings, and they had used it successfully.

Having problems with the multiple coatings with no sanding between coats. It doesn't want to flow and level properly. If I extend the dry periods between coats, too much more, I'll be sanding, which defeats the buildup purpose.

Any of you recent inductees to this site, have any stories or tips on this product?

[Leprechaun]

Tony - I've heard of that problem before with some of these wood finishes but do not know the solution.

If you cannot get satisfactory results and want to start over I strongly recommend one of the Sikkens/Cetol products - like "Original" or the newer "Light" finish. This stuff wears like iron and is easy to apply and touch up if scuffed.

I know its not what you asked, but its what I use and endorse.

rgds, Leprechaun

[Tony]

ARGH......why do I go into unchartered waters? It must be the rain. Weatherman says we have rain in the last 45 out of 48 days. Gotta move to Florida, then I'd be too busy fishin to worry about what kind of varnish to use.

Lep, I hear you on the Cetol issue. Popular here also. In fact my boat is slathered with the stuff. Opaque thick chunks are falling off the taff rails. I'm told there have been changes to offer clear finishes with the same tenacious reputation. I like to be able to see the actual grain of the wood, not some colouring agent added by the manufacturer. The only place I wanted a two part coating is on the swim grid, the rest of my woodwork gets Epifanes gloss. But the bug with the two part products is they are so damn finicky to apply. When the user manual supplied begins to equal your latest car ....well you get the idea. At a hundred bucks a quart, this stuff is going to work, or you will hear me all the way New York.

My dealer says the best is sprayed on, thinner layers, but can be recoated in about 10 minutes. Glass like. I have a friend in the auto paint business. He doesn't know it yet, but he is about to get a call from Tony-purveyor of fine spirits.

[Engineman]

Looking back over this post topic I couldn't help myself.
While in Bristol, TN this weekend I saw a Bristol finish.
Larry Dixon drives the Miller Lite car for Don Prudome. After a 4.6 second pass the wing folded back and the car went wild. After hitting one wall and going upside down he slid across the track and hit the other wall still sliding on his head. All this at 322 mph. This happened right in front of our pit at the finish line.

That's what I call a Bristol Finish.

Sorry, still couldn't help myself.

Tim

[antique]

Tony

If you are down to the bare wood, try a wood filler sand it smooth and then apply Bristol finish and only stroke in one direction with the grain of the wood using a foam brush.

The woodfiller will help level out the finish and cut down on the brush drag.
The wood filler can be purchased at Woodworkers Supply.

Good Luck

Antique

[Tony]

Antique:

The first coat went on with no problems. It's the coats that go on over a partially cured coat that I'm having problems with. I'm looking for about 15 coats on the grid. That can be accomplished in 2 or 3 days, according to the manufacture. Then let it dry for 48 hrs, sand with 220 grit, and apply with 2 more coats without sanding, and you are done.

Two part varnish, acrylic urethane, comes with reducer if you need to extend dry time. Haven't tied heating the mixure, but the second coat is supposed to go onto a dry to the touch previous coat, one to two hours. I've waited up to 5 hrs in a 65 F room, with a fan providing ventilation, and the wetted brush fights with the previous coat. You end up flooding the piece, and using way too much varnish. Plus, a foam brush fell apart. It was not able to stand up to the drag of getting fresh onto old. This is starting to look like a spray job.

Wood filler would help a first coat problem, but I can't see it helping in this case. What do you think? The dealer is trying to help but he is shy of the nec. experience to know what is wrong here.

[No Tacks]

I cant believe your useing a foam brush....As a part time painter when ive done any kind of oil type work involving medium to high glosses,I always use a chinese bristle brush...Ive tried those foam thangs just because they were the new thing at the time,but now im back to ol-reliable..And you should too :D ...bill....

[antique]

Tony,

To answer your questions :

1. the reason for the wood filler is to fill the poures of the wood making a level surface. If you have high and low spots in the finish and are trying to sand out an even finish this can be part of the problem. When you are applying the finish the poures are not as dry as the surface finish and this will cause the fighting of the previous coat.

2. the humidity is a key factor in a good application, I believe it has to be below 50% relative humidity. This will help with the drag.

3. I would go to 320 grit paper for sanding.

4. I use a lot of foam brushes they are cheap. I can go through 3 or 4 depending on the size of the project. You can use the chinese bristle brush . What ever you like.

Good Luck

Antique