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QuinnSea
04-28-2003, 08:33 PM
Has anyone used this before? I've seen a lot of chatter about this stuff locally and was wondering if anyone else had any experience with it. I was thinking about coating some rusty parts with it.

www.por15.com

Leprechaun
04-28-2003, 10:13 PM
Yes, I was the one that introduced this stuff to this site years ago.

We used it extensively in the early '90s during the restoration of my old Vette, on the chassis, and I felt at the time that it was so damn tough that it was worth mentioning here in answer to a question with a marine context.

Its really quite remarkable, hitting it with a hammer leaves almost no mark and if applied according to instructions it will never chip or peel.

I do not know how resistant it is to salt spray or moisture penetration - there is a Milspec somewhere that defines such resistance. I wonder if POR-15 has ever done that testing? I have to spend some time on their site.

rgds, Leprechaun

Agapemou
04-29-2003, 01:13 AM
I painted my entire Shamrock trailer with it. It is a 6 step process and very expensive but it does work great. Hard as nails adn seems to be working.

Cpt. Cobia
04-29-2003, 10:05 AM
I did my entire eng, trans, mounts, fly wheel, brackets , everything that had rust or would rust. Scrape the heavy stuff off and paint over the rust, for real, it sticks better to rust than clean metal. I even did the lifter valley so oil could flow better back to the crank case. I bead blasted my oil pan, let it get a film of rust on the out side and put about 5 coats on the sump area. I don't worry if it sits in salty bildge water for a short time.

Get It and use it!
c.c.

Lolo Kane
04-29-2003, 10:46 AM
Capt. Cobia, I'm thinking about doing this to my engine/trans when I repower. How much did it cost you and how many hours of work was it? And what color do you recommend.

TX,

QuinnSea
04-30-2003, 11:42 AM
Thanks, looks like I'll be trying it out...

Cpt. Cobia
05-01-2003, 06:42 AM
lolo Cane
I bought the six pack of 4oz. cans in standard gloss black. The lid on the can will only stand to be opened 8 or so times and it gets to where it wont seal. You will end up with a solid chuck of POR15. Many cans -Small quantities. Like I said paint right over normal rust. I bead blasted the trans, intake, and all brackets and pulleys. Looking back I would say it was'nt nessary. But putting POR15 over paint is a waste of time, it has to be bare metal. The diff colors have diff heat ranges Standard gloss black has the highest range and on a smooth surface looks like a show car paint job. I tried not to look at the time but it was worth it, and I brush painted it out side. It has a slight funky smell. If nothing else do the oil pan trick. I am going to help Mattamuskeet do his pan on his 17'.
Any more questions, I will help.
c.c.

Lolo Kane
05-01-2003, 10:17 AM
CC, I was hoping to use a light color so that it would be easy to spot leaks and/or rust forming. But if black is the only color that can stand up to cylinder head type heat then black it is.

Good tip on the small quantities with that lid problem.

Lolo

Engineman
05-01-2003, 10:57 AM
The good thing with the POR is that you can get it for the engine as well. It comes in many colors also.
This link will take you to the engine paint chart.

http://www.por15.com/enginepaint.html

Tim

Agapemou
05-01-2003, 01:43 PM
When sealing teh can of POR 15 put a baggie in between the can and lid to make an air tight seal. I poured my surplus into old jars sealed the same way and the paint is still good. Everytime I unscrew teh lid I just replace the baggie.

Engineman
05-01-2003, 02:20 PM
I tried the baggy method on a can of topcoat black. That was my stupidity and lost a can of good paint. The baby food jar is a good alternative and I will try that next.

Tim