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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    outside Boston, MA
    Posts
    592

    Default Trailer for Keel Boat

    I have a Shorelander trailer from 1988 which was modified for my Shamrock Predator. Right now, there is a 4x4 timber under the rear roller bank to raise it so the keel clears the cross-member. I only have 1" of clearance between the keel and cross-member. I want to eliminate the wooden blocks and lift the rear and front rollers about 3 inches and 6 inches respectively (since the boat's nose points down on the trailer). This will allow me to get up and down my hill without dragging my keel and rudder. To fix the problem temporarily, I've changer to a 2" drop on my trailer hitch but now the tongue is too low.

    I came across this pic online. I'm looking for the vertical stanchions that bolt via U-bolt to the cross members and support the roller banks. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.



    Below is my trailer now...if you look closely at the rear rollers, you'll see the 4x4 spacer.



    I figure now would be a perfect time to jack up the boat to work on the trailer since the engine is out...
    -Paul

    1990 Shamrock Predator 20
    Indmar 302 CID V8, Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1:1
    Closed loop cooled with 4 barrel Holley carburetor
    13X13 LH Michigan Dyna-Jet


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    outside Boston, MA
    Posts
    592

    Default

    Me thinks too much weight on the tongue if I move it forward. Plus, a longer trailer makes launching easier.
    -Paul

    1990 Shamrock Predator 20
    Indmar 302 CID V8, Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1:1
    Closed loop cooled with 4 barrel Holley carburetor
    13X13 LH Michigan Dyna-Jet


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    outside Boston, MA
    Posts
    592

    Default

    I have bunks on my other boat's trailer. They need to be changed (new wood and carpet) every 3-5 years. Although they support over a greater area/distance, I like rollers because they allow for less drag during launch and retreival. Plus, these rollers are in great condition and seem to be very rugged.

    Now that I look at some of the trailer pictures, I might be able to cut up some 6x6, 1/2" thick steel angle iron to make L brackets. 2 holes in the base for the U-bolts and 1 hole in the side for the pivot pin for the roller banks might solve my problem. If I really wanted to get fancy, I'll have them HD galvanized. I might have some 304 SS angle iron around somewhere....

    I don't need much clearance, just enough to get me over the transistion from hill to level ground.

    Editted to add:
    What is that pipe coming from your transom? Exhaust extension? PS, I love your swim platform...maybe not this season but someday, I'll make one.
    -Paul

    1990 Shamrock Predator 20
    Indmar 302 CID V8, Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1:1
    Closed loop cooled with 4 barrel Holley carburetor
    13X13 LH Michigan Dyna-Jet


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Havertown, PA
    Posts
    13,405

    Default

    Paul...

    How many rollers are on the front supports? It looks like it's only two at each end of the front rocker beams (looking at the photo of your boat on the trailer). If that's the case, you really need more.

    I had 32 rollers (8 sets of quad rollers) total under mine and I could see slight depressions in the hull at the roller contact points near the engine and at the forward-most trucks. That's why I changed to bunks.

    Was:



    Is:



    Front supports now:

    Last edited by Kurt; 01-22-2014 at 01:18 AM.
    '98 200 Open
    - SeaMaxx 351 CID Ford, 260 HP, Holley Carb, FWC
    - N39 59', W75 18'
    - LBI, NJ; Upper Chesapeake Bay, MD

    Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they WILL make it illegal.

    "We're not lost, Private -- We're in Normandy." : Maj. Richard Winters, Easy Company, US Army 101st Airborne. Normandy on D-Day

    Disclaimer: Any suggestions made in these posts are just that, suggestions. To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi: "Who's the more foolish - the fool, or the fool who follows him?".

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    outside Boston, MA
    Posts
    592

    Default

    8 on the front and 16 at the back. 4 per front beam. Am I correct to assume there isn't much weight forward of the helm? Just fiberglass and floation foam (give or take).
    -Paul

    1990 Shamrock Predator 20
    Indmar 302 CID V8, Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1:1
    Closed loop cooled with 4 barrel Holley carburetor
    13X13 LH Michigan Dyna-Jet


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Emerald Isle, N.C.
    Posts
    7,579

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnshan
    That pipe is my exhaust, just a single pipe, it was an add on by the previous owner, dont know why.
    Keeps the exhaust soot off the fiberglass and platform.
    '89 26' cuddy, 351, GT40P, FWC, QUIK FIX II
    '75 20' open fisherman, 351, .030 over, GT40, FWC, QUIK FIX III
    16' Sandpiper, 40 Yamaha, Lil' Quik Fix
    14' Certified Fiberglass, 9.9 Zuke 4 stroke

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Havertown, PA
    Posts
    13,405

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by maa. melee
    8 on the front and 16 at the back. 4 per front beam. Am I correct to assume there isn't much weight forward of the helm? Just fiberglass and floation foam (give or take).
    Not the case...

    Because the engine sits forward of the front set of rollers on the rear roller rocker beam (either just above or slightly forward of the trailer axle, in your case), there is quite a bit of weight up there. Figure close to 900# of iron concentrated right at that area plus the weight of the forward hull and cabin structure. I would crawl under the trailer and put a straight edge against the hull next to all four sets of forward rollers to see if they aren't dimpling the hull. And, any bouncing on the road is just going to aggravate the situation.

    I can tell you that the hull warranty statement for my boat says that it could be voided if the boat is put on a roller trailer and any damage can be traced to the rollers. Of course my warranty has expired but there has to be something to make them put that clause in there. When I read that, I was p*ssed at my dealer for selling me the boat on a roller trailer. By the time I'd realized the situation, he was out of business.

    I used Doug Fir for the bunk supports and coated them with four coats of Thompson's Water Seal, letting them dry for two days between coats, before I put the Poly covers on. I wanted to use Bald Cypress but the cost of that wood in my area was over $10 a bd-ft. With 32 ft of lumber in my bunks, it was kind of a bank breaker. I paid ~$75 for two 2 x 6 x 16' lengths of clear Doug Fir. Wonder how much it would cost to use Ipe??
    '98 200 Open
    - SeaMaxx 351 CID Ford, 260 HP, Holley Carb, FWC
    - N39 59', W75 18'
    - LBI, NJ; Upper Chesapeake Bay, MD

    Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they WILL make it illegal.

    "We're not lost, Private -- We're in Normandy." : Maj. Richard Winters, Easy Company, US Army 101st Airborne. Normandy on D-Day

    Disclaimer: Any suggestions made in these posts are just that, suggestions. To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi: "Who's the more foolish - the fool, or the fool who follows him?".

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    2,450

    Default

    maa if you are only getting 3-5 years on a set of bunks, you have something wrong. The bunks under one of the whaler trailers sitting in the yard are 15 years old, thought I was going to have to replace them this past summer only to find that the lag bolt holding it was rusted out. All the bunks under my trailers are over 8 years old, both in a 2x variety and 4x variety. I can only remember seeing 2x bunks having to be replaced and that typically was caused by someone misloading the trailer and putting too much pressure on one.
    Instigator 1991 220 Predator - Wilmington, NC
    Formerly Evangeline 1987 20' Shamrock Predator - Murrells Inlet, SC
    MIM 1977 Boston Whaler 17' Montauk - Murrells Inlet, SC
    Rag Time 2004 24' Triton - Murrells Inlet, SC
    Formerly Reel Time 1989 26' Shamrock Predator - Sneads Ferry, NC

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Rose Valley, PA Dividing Creek,NJ
    Posts
    1,073

    Default

    I have the white plastic (glide ons?) on my bunks. The very first time I launched the boat the tide was very low at the ramp and just a bit of the hull was in the water. I told my buddy "I don't think we are going to be able to get this off the trailer" I unhooked the cable (first mistake) and we gave it a test shove. I wish I had a video of me chasing my boat down the trailer and jumping on the bow when I ran out of trailer space. No lines attached (second mistake). Yes the plugs were in.

    I still can't believe how easy it slides off the bunks.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    outside Boston, MA
    Posts
    592

    Default

    Where does one look for trailer parts, specifically the stuctural brackets for the roller bunks, stanchions, U-bolts, and possibly wood bunk hardware?

    Kurt, did you fabricate your trailer from a kit or was it done by someone? It looks very professional.
    -Paul

    1990 Shamrock Predator 20
    Indmar 302 CID V8, Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1:1
    Closed loop cooled with 4 barrel Holley carburetor
    13X13 LH Michigan Dyna-Jet


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