Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntington Station, NY
    Posts
    2,274

    Default Sea Star Hydraulic steering

    Splash is mid week and while checking over the various systems I found my hydraulic steering was a touch low on fluid. Checking all the fittings I found I have a very slow drip where the arm leaves the piston back at the rudder. Doesn't appear to be any fitting that can be tightened or adjusted. Maybe I need a new piston? What say you hydraulic specialists? The helm control has a label with 1.7 helm-6.9MPA -Teleflex .Thanks....

    regards Holty
    Short Circuit
    Huntington Harbor, Long Island, NY
    99 Mack
    350 Seamaxx

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Elberta, AL
    Posts
    2,268

    Default

    My guess would be take it to a local hydraulic shop and they can probably rebuild it a lot cheaper than a new one could be purchased. That would be my first route.
    IF IT CAN'T BE FIXED WITH A HAMMER, ITS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
    "The Best Bilge Pump Is A Scared Man With A Bucket"
    83 20' Cuddy Shammy 350 Chevy - SOLD
    21' Carolina Skiff 140 Tohatsu Jet Drive - Fish Killin, Shallow Running Machine that would make any Hell's Bay Jealous
    1999 26' Open 350 Carb - "SHAMWOW!" - FOR SALE
    "I would rather have a gun in my hand than a cop on the phone" - Author Unknown

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Havertown, PA
    Posts
    13,422

    Default

    Sea Star cyls are evidently a bear to rebuild - just ask Lep.
    '98 200 Open
    - SeaMaxx 351 CID Ford, 260 HP, Holley Carb, FWC
    - N39 59', W75 18'
    - LBI, NJ; Upper Chesapeake Bay, MD

    Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they WILL make it illegal.

    "We're not lost, Private -- We're in Normandy." : Maj. Richard Winters, Easy Company, US Army 101st Airborne. Normandy on D-Day

    Disclaimer: Any suggestions made in these posts are just that, suggestions. To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi: "Who's the more foolish - the fool, or the fool who follows him?".

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    550

    Default

    You can get a seal kit for arround $30. But, you should disconnect the cylinder/rod from the tiller and closely inspect the rod for pitting and wear. Rotate the rod 180* and check, also operate it back and forth. If the rod is pitted/scored etc. you may as well bite the bullet and order a new cyl. assy., or the needed parts to rebuild.
    It may have worn from too much lateral pressure from misalignment or a frozen trunnion, check it out.
    Have fun.
    If it ain't got a KEEL, it ain't the real deal!
    1987 20' Walk-Thru 302 HO RWC

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    2,451

    Default

    replace the seals, better than $350+ for new cylinder which are few and far between right now.
    Instigator 1991 220 Predator - Wilmington, NC
    Formerly Evangeline 1987 20' Shamrock Predator - Murrells Inlet, SC
    MIM 1977 Boston Whaler 17' Montauk - Murrells Inlet, SC
    Rag Time 2004 24' Triton - Murrells Inlet, SC
    Formerly Reel Time 1989 26' Shamrock Predator - Sneads Ferry, NC

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Wantagh, N.Y.
    Posts
    3,620

    Default

    OMG do I hate those P.I.T.A. P.O.S's.

    Jay, let it go for a few weeks, let me get my boat in the water and then if you like, we'll take a wack at rebuilding your cylinder. what is it? a 125 or a 135?

    Lep
    Three-fourths of the Earth's surface is water, and one-fourth is land. So it is quite clear that the good Lord intended us to spend triple the amount of time fishing as taking care of the lawn.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntington Station, NY
    Posts
    2,274

    Default

    Thanks Pete. I don't know which model as the label on the cylinder is long gone. I rigged an old tuna fish can to collect the drops for now. I may have to let the repair go for awhile as my two daughters will be keeping me busy in the near future. One is expecting mid May and the other is to be married mid June. The daddy please help lists keep getting longer. I'll figure out the model number and keep you posted.

    regards Holty
    Short Circuit
    Huntington Harbor, Long Island, NY
    99 Mack
    350 Seamaxx

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Wantagh, N.Y.
    Posts
    3,620

    Default

    Jay, as the others have said, look hard at the full length of the rod. If you see any scoring, we can rebuild the seals and STILL it will leak, and in a very short time too. I've tried micro-polishing the scratches out, but what happens then is that you change the diameter of the rod and it will leak even worse.

    I have had success (I should say that Freddy had somes success) forestalling a replacement by rebuilding with slightly oversize metric o-ring seals in the end caps, instead of the factory S.A.E. rings. I believe I got 2 seasons out of the rebuild, done this way. Its an even more PITA, because of the tight clearance with the oversized rings, but it can work. For a while anyways.

    The best luck I've had so far is to make a protective "boot" out of a bicycle's rubber inner tube, fixing one end to the cylider end cap with three wire ties and the other end to the heim joint at the end of the ram arm. This keep the schmutz that migrates down thru our equally bad, unsealable rudder hatch from ending up on the ram arm and thus getting pulled thru the end seal o-ring. You just have to make sure that the piece of inner tube you use is a tad longer than the ram's full extension.

    Looks a little silly, but it seemed to work darn well for the past 2 seasons.

    So far anyway.

    Lep
    Three-fourths of the Earth's surface is water, and one-fourth is land. So it is quite clear that the good Lord intended us to spend triple the amount of time fishing as taking care of the lawn.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntington Station, NY
    Posts
    2,274

    Default

    So Pete, your saying you cover the arm with an innertube attached to the ram and covering it to the rudder arm knuckle? Won't this completely fill with oil? Maybe I'm not understanding.

    regards Holty
    Short Circuit
    Huntington Harbor, Long Island, NY
    99 Mack
    350 Seamaxx

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Atlantic City, NJ area
    Posts
    9,764

    Default

    Holty, After the fix put the tube on. It keeps it from going south for a longer time than if unprotected.
    1982 20' Cuddy Cabin, 2012 Rebuilt PCM 351 .060 o.s.pistons, Gt-40 heads FWC 1/2sys Edelbrock carb

    Old Coast Guard motto: YOU HAVE TO GO OUT BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO COME BACK!
    That should be every boater's warning. Be safe out there!

    Disclaimer: Any comments made in these posts are just suggestions.... learned from the School of Hard Knocks.... Class mascot: A Knucklehead

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •