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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    572

    Default Distributor Cap Corrosion

    Hi Guys

    My cap is about two months old and I noticed corrosion on the metal tabs inside. Do you guys clean it out, if so what do you use cause electrionic cleaner does not remove the corrosion green color. Or is alright to have this discoloraiton in the tabs. It' still starts up, well still need to check on this.

    Will some kind of grease or silicone be use for prevention?

    Thanks, JD

    ps. or do I just get a new one?
    MaChaLek
    93 220 Warrior Yanmar 170hp
    86 20' CC Open Fish PCM 302 RWC
    Before 1997 14' Ken Boat

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Havertown, PA
    Posts
    13,484

    Default

    JD...

    At 3000 RPM, a spark jumps to each one of those posts 12.5 times a second. After even an hour of running, on a new cap, you will see discoloration and marks where the spark prefers to jump.

    If it appears to be a real "growth" of crud, then that might be of concern but if it's just discoloration and slight pitting, that's normal. You can try a stiff toothbrush or a small, fine stainless steel brush (I would not use a Brass brush because it might leave some metal behind on the phenolic cap material or just be very careful using it).

    After it's cleaned up, you might try spraying a little CRC 5-56 inside the cap - I would not use Silicone grease - that may actually cause performance issues.
    '98 200 Open
    - SeaMaxx 351 CID Ford, 260 HP, Holley Carb, FWC
    - N39° 59', W75° 18'
    - LBI, NJ; Upper Chesapeake Bay, MD

    Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they WILL make it illegal.

    "We're not lost, Private -- We're in Normandy." : Maj. Richard Winters, Easy Company, US Army 101st Airborne. Normandy on D-Day

    Disclaimer: Any suggestions made in these posts are just that, suggestions. To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi: "Who's the more foolish - the fool, or the fool who follows him?".

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Merritt Island, FL
    Posts
    4,754

    Default

    you can also spray corrosion X in there, but askurt says, it will not stop the normal deterioration of the contacts
    Irish Jig - "Wishin' I was Fishin'"
    1993 26LE - Cummins 6BT 210HP/ZF63a 1.22

    "Real men drive straight shafts." - Unknown

    “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” - Ben Franklin

    "Ninety percent I'll spend on good times, women and Irish Whiskey. The other ten percent I'll probably waste." - Tug McGraw

    Disclaimer: Any suggestions made in these posts are just that, suggestions.... learned from the School of Hard Knocks.... Class of 1961-present.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Guam
    Posts
    572

    Default

    OMG! Cool! Was already going to purchase another one! Once, their was a loud pop, we opened it up and found a drop of water, cleaned it out and continued fishing.

    Great explanaiton and informaition!

    JD
    MaChaLek
    93 220 Warrior Yanmar 170hp
    86 20' CC Open Fish PCM 302 RWC
    Before 1997 14' Ken Boat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Havertown, PA
    Posts
    13,484

    Default

    Condensation inside a distributor cap can drive you nuts until it warms up and you get rid of it. Something like CRC 5-56 can do some to get rid of it and also keep it at bay.
    '98 200 Open
    - SeaMaxx 351 CID Ford, 260 HP, Holley Carb, FWC
    - N39° 59', W75° 18'
    - LBI, NJ; Upper Chesapeake Bay, MD

    Eat drink and be merry, for tomorrow they WILL make it illegal.

    "We're not lost, Private -- We're in Normandy." : Maj. Richard Winters, Easy Company, US Army 101st Airborne. Normandy on D-Day

    Disclaimer: Any suggestions made in these posts are just that, suggestions. To quote Obi-Wan Kenobi: "Who's the more foolish - the fool, or the fool who follows him?".

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Lake Lanier - Georgia
    Posts
    357

    Default Cap

    I was having performance problems. Ok at idle but not jumping when I shoved the throttle down. I put a new cap & rotor in and it seems to have solved the problem.
    MAC - Horizon Chaser
    1998 20 Open, 351 Ford/PCM Carb, Raw water cooling
    Lake Lanier, NE Georgia

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bensalem PA
    Posts
    6,078

    Default

    wd-40 I have heard stands for Water Displacment 40th try......
    Amber Leigh

    2003 246 CC Gelding
    350-330 mpi cap's choice


    Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscripti catapultas habebunt. It's Latin


    Disclaimer:I am not responsable for the accuracy made in these posts ..... IANAL

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Live Free or Die
    Posts
    4,099

    Default

    When you do purchase a new cap, make sure you get one with brass terminals, not aluminum.



    Political correctness is
    for weak minded people!


    -------------------------------------

    Remember the seven P's:

    Prior Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

    Keep Motorin'

    Scooter

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Morehead City, NC
    Posts
    515

    Default

    Not knowing alot about auto mechanics,when I replaced my cap and rotor the auto/marine place told me the type that I had was a Mallory type ignition cap and rotor. What ever that means. The only difference I saw was brass contacts and a rubber o-ring that was to help keep moisture out. I couldn't tell you if that is the same on regular car caps. I'm sure some of you know the difference.It seems to run good. Knock on wood.
    Chris

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    551

    Default

    FYI you can get small wood handled stainless wire "toothbrushes" at any welding supply house. Lowe's or some other big box stores might carry them also. I think NAPA has em' mayhaps other auto parts joints also.

    Guam? Dunno.
    If it ain't got a KEEL, it ain't the real deal!
    1987 20' Walk-Thru 302 HO RWC

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