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  #11  
Old 02-05-2010, 10:32 PM
Kelly`s Dad Kelly`s Dad is offline
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Default new..

JZ My prop is not 13x13. it is a 14x11, maybe. still welcome to try it on. Did you borrow prop puller from the yard ?
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2010, 09:16 AM
curt curt is offline
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Jay Z , I run a 3 blade Acme 12.625x 13 with a 351 EFI and I may be slightly over propped. I need to confirm my tach. I bet that 11.5 will be just about right. Acme props slip less, they have a lot of blade area.
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:04 PM
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ct9a-mr ct9a-mr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly`s Dad View Post
JZ My prop is not 13x13. it is a 14x11, maybe. still welcome to try it on. Did you borrow prop puller from the yard ?
I am interested in the 14x11 if you wanted to sell it. I would like a spare.
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  #14  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:53 PM
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Kurt Kurt is offline
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Make sure the shaft diameters match...

20'ers have a 1" dia shaft, 22'ers have a 1-1/4" dia shaft but both wide hulls use a 14 x 11 prop. Don't know what boat Kelly's Dad has (unless he mentioned it elsewhere and I missed it).
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2010, 03:03 PM
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jay z jay z is offline
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Default acme props

Quote:
Acme props slip less, they have a lot of blade area.
Yesterday 07:32 PM
I noticed, I saw one that valley propeller service in Ventura had in the shop and was also a 13 inch and it looked huge compared to the old 13 even though they were the same diameter. Each blade looked like it had twice as much area. I am excited to get the new one on.

Quote:
Did you borrow prop puller from the yard ?
yeah, Greg and Dennis were able to borrow a puller from the ventura boatyard mechanic. They have established a pretty good relationship with him. He is a real nice and helpful guy. He did all the work on the 45' stephens putting the struts and shafts back into that boat.

That prop was on there good. It took more force than I thought to get it off the shaft.

Quote:
Don't know what boat Kelly's Dad has (unless he mentioned it elsewhere and I missed it).
kellys dad, has a 92? 22 walk around cuddy. I think, I know it is a 90's 22 hull.

I just got an optical tachometer to check the rpm's but it is raining right now, maybe tomorrow.

When I run the engine with the new prop I will also hook up a vacuum gauge to see what it is pulling. I forget exactly what normal vacuum is, 11 -13? And what will I looking for to determine too much of a load. I guess another question is, how much or how little vacuum is needed to open the secondaries?
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1989 20' Walk-Thru 302 (5.0 HO) PCM RWC
Ventura Harbor, CA
1963 Columbia 24
Channel Islands Harbor, CA
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  #16  
Old 02-08-2010, 10:39 PM
marcell68 marcell68 is offline
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Default 84 20 cuddy with 302 pcm

original book came with my boat it calls for a 12x12 l.h.
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2010, 11:09 AM
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jay z jay z is offline
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Default new prop is in but not on.

We got the new prop in and I was going to install it yesterday but then dug a little too deep. I wanted to repack the shaft seal, then I looked at the hose and then I wanted to replace that. SO, I had to drop the rudder, and am now trying to get off the flange. It is difficult.

The new prop looks cool with the cnc tooling marks and the shinny new nibral. I also like how the blades are as long as they can be. Hopefully I can get off that flange today so that I can get that prop on and do a little harbor cruise to test out the prop.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new prop 1.jpg (138.8 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg new prop 2.jpg (122.2 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg shaft log.jpg (125.6 KB, 49 views)
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JZ

1989 20' Walk-Thru 302 (5.0 HO) PCM RWC
Ventura Harbor, CA
1963 Columbia 24
Channel Islands Harbor, CA
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2010, 12:47 PM
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Blankendingy Blankendingy is offline
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You've read the horror stories about flange removal. When all else fails cut it with a grinder and chisel. Don't score the shaft, cut just close enough to allow the chisel to split the coupling. Good Luck, you'll need it.
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  #19  
Old 02-13-2010, 09:33 PM
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jay z jay z is offline
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Default no flange removal

I tried a little bit this morning to get the flange off by heating it, but still nothing, so I gave up and put it back together as it is. I will have to replace the hose on the shaft at a later date. We might consider a drive saver and that is when we will deal with that flange. Today I put it all back together. I got the new prop on and repacked the shaft and rudder with new flax ptfe packing. The new prop looks good but I was not diligent enough to take pictures of it on the boat. I will get some pics when it comes back out.

The new prop has less pitch and I could notice a slower speed at idle in the harbor. The motor was running smoother than before. I am impressed already. It does appear to walk a little more in reverse, but that might have also had to deal with some currents. When I pulled in to the slip and looked at the packing to see if I needed to adjust it. It was leaking quite a bit, but that was because I never tightened the lock nut. The packing nut backed off of the threads and was just spinning on the shaft. I just screwed it back down and will have to adjust the drip rate tomorrow once I get the rpms up. The rudder packing didn't have the lock nut set either but of course didn't back itself off. I really like the new rudder packing because I couldn't get the old one to not leak.

Tomorrow we are taking the boat out to Santa Cruz Island to go surf, we will see how the new stuff does.
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JZ

1989 20' Walk-Thru 302 (5.0 HO) PCM RWC
Ventura Harbor, CA
1963 Columbia 24
Channel Islands Harbor, CA
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  #20  
Old 06-02-2010, 09:34 PM
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scoffshore scoffshore is offline
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So, after a couple of months running the prop, what do you think? Overall performance up or down? Did you write down the acme number? I got an Acme sitting at Pitch Perfect right now for the Mako, it looks sweet! Thinking about making the dive for the Shammie....
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